There is nothing quite like the silent appearance of a crocodile alongside your makoro to make you realise the totally futile presence of a thin piece of wood lying between you and the jaws of one of the most efficient predators of all time. The yellow eye gazed unblinkingly at me in my seat at the bow of the makoro whilst the tip of its tail beyond the stern of the boat propelled it with consummate ease as our guide paddled frantically for the bank. With a languid indifference our pursuer disappeared below the murky waters to reappear a couple of seconds later with a metre long barbel clasped between its jaws. Bad news for the barbel but good news for us – I retain enough composure to reel off a couple of photographs as the hunter thrashes its prey to death in the water beside me.
Last week I paid twenty bucks for seven minutes with Sirocco the Kakapo as part of New Zealand Conservation Week at the Auckland Zoo. Not sure how much Stephen Fry’s photographer paid, but I certainly didn’t get as intimate as this. Lucky bastard…
“70 South African Rand for each vehicle that wants to cross.”
I am not unused to paying a toll to cross a bridge. It costs about the same to take a car across the Severn Bridge in the UK. Granted this bridge does not have the same amount of traffic but after a brief glance at the structure, neither did it require the same amount of engineering or cost to put it in place.
Darkness. The ink black sky punctuated by a thousand crystal gems. Silence, I check the time and realise it is too early for the dawn chorus. I slide into the driver’s seat of my Toyota 4WD pickup – or bakkie as they are affectionately known in this country – and take my mother’s pounamu from Aotearoa and hang it from the rear view mirror. We are ready now, her and me, mother and son about to embark on a road trip through a country she loved.
It was only later in the week that I saw how the single travel ‘mishap’ of being diverted to Port Elizabeth had set in a place a chain of events that led me to be seated at a table in a superb seafood restaurant in Knysna sharing a good bottle of South African wine and a seafood platter – that left even me beaten – with another person, bought together by a shared experience on the road.
