It’s 2 in the morning and I find myself in the Yellow Peril- a huge Toyota truck with non-existent suspension and small sheets of Perspex that serve as windows. I’m sitting on a hard-back bench with a thin swab beneath me as the only insulation from the road’s “unforeseen obstacles.” And it’s raining. Hard. A torrential, tropical downpour that soaks everything, but even now, in the middle of the night, causes steam to rise from the road. Talofa Lava Samoa!